This year was a key window of opportunity to visit Zanskar. Until the last year or so, there was no road through the valley. So for 1000 years people have had to walk or ride animals for 2 weeks across paths built in the “Silk Road” era of ancient Asian history. Or wait for winter and walk down the surface of the frozen river itself. No thanks. But now there’s a road! The Indian government decided it needed the ability to move its troops through the area to defend against Pakistan and China, so the roadbuilding effort is sudden and massive. It’s not finished (or safe, honestly). Soon tourists (and more) will come down these almost-finished roads and the place will never be the same. Now was the time to visit.

For a millennium or so before it became part of India in the 20th Century, Zanskar was a kingdom. We’d heard that there was still (technically) a Queen — living in Zagra. We joked whether she might be single and went looking. We found her — a 90ish year old lady sitting cross-legged in the middle of the road thrashing barley on a tarp. Not super-regal. Our guides talked her daughter-in-law into showing off a royal traditional headdress and answering a few questions.

Soon up walked an young man (fluent in English) volunteering answers and information. It was the Prince of Zanskar — the queen’s grandson. After college in Hungary, he’s returned to Zanskar eager to preserve its culture and promote visitors once the new road gets done. He said he had the keys to let us look around the 10th Century palace on top of the mountain. We gave him a ride up the hill, hiked the path the last quarter mile or so, and got a tour.