As you head east from India’s Kashmir Valley, across the mountains to Zanskar, the Muslim influence gives way to a Buddist world. There are lots of monasteries. Most have elaborate paintings and tapestries. Sometimes we were allowed to quietly sit and photograph even during prayers; sometimes we couldn’t photograph anything at all. The monasteries often seem like a combination church, old-folks home, and orphanage, as well as art museum and (run-down) palace.