Did you know that Buddhism is the second most practiced religion (behind Christianity) in 13 western U.S. states (including Oklahoma!)? I didn’t (until recently, anyway). Nor did I really know a darn thing about it. So I brushed up a little in preparation for my January Asian adventure.

First stop:  Bangkok.

The most visited sites in Bangkok include a handful of huge Buddhist temple complexes (“Wats”), mostly arrayed along the Chao Phraya river that runs through the heart of town.  There’s one at the Grand Palace called Wat Phra Kaew; there’s one right next door called Wat Pho, and one just across the river (with the tall towers) called Wat Aron.  Wat Pho is home to a 160-foot reclining Buddha – a Buddha statue the size of a US Navy patrol ship, casually lying on its side with its head propped on its right arm.  The legend is that a “reclining” Buddha isn’t sleeping or resting – he’s just so “enlightened” he’s practically floating: that’s the standard pose in Nirvana.

Depending on your definitions, Buddhism isn’t necessarily even a religion at all. It’s theoretically “non-theistic” which means it doesn’t (necessarily) involve a god or gods. Buddha himself is believed to have been a teacher/philosopher who lived 2500 years ago in India. Technically, he’s not considered a god, and in theory neither he nor those statues are worshipped or prayed to – though to an outsider that’s just what it all looks like when Buddhists bow down with their palms pressed together in front of their faces. (Come to think of it, though, they did pretty much that same thing to me when I walked into my Bangkok hotel lobby).  They say those ever-present gilded statues of Buddha are just there to remind them of the qualities and teachings of Buddha.

Bangkok was just a short stopover on the way to a three-week stint in Burma, so there’ll be much more to come from my foray into the Buddhist world.

Bangkok isn’t solely about ancient Wats and Palaces. This was the view from the balcony of my hotel room along the River.  The main part of the city’s skyline was behind me.

If you’re like me, you can’t think of a visit to Bangkok without thinking of the 1980s song “One Night in Bangkok.”  Written by a couple of members of ABBA, it’s actually about an international chess tournament set against the backdrop of some of Bangkok’s seedier aspects.  

One of a handful of posts from a couple of days’ stopover in Bangkok, Thailand.    

If you’re a Yul Brenner fan, you’ll be interested to know that King Bhumobol Adulyadej of Thailand — a.k.a. Rama IX — is the modern-day King of Siam.*  It’s a shame I didn’t get to meet him on my trip through Bangkok. Between the two of us, “The King and I” have a combined US$30 billion, control 3,000 acres of downtown Bangkok, and have reigned over Thailand since 1946. Admittedly, most of that is him: he’s the World’s Richest Royal, and the world’s longest-reigning monarch.  They say Rama IX is well respected, but then it’s against Thai law to not respect him, so take that for what it’s worth.

This sign stands next to the river, in front of the Grand Palace. Notice that it’s (exclusively) in English. Signs and advertisements around the airport and the historic, shopping and tourist areas were just as likely to be in English as in Thai.

Outside the temple of the Emerald Buddha, you could sprinkle yourself with sacred Buddha water using a symbolic lotus flower. I opted out, but a couple of folks slung water my direction anyway.

The grounds of Rama’s Grand Palace look more like Disneyland than many parts of Disneyland do.  If you go on a Sunday, let me just warn you that you’re making a mistake: you’ll be elbow to elbow with a sea of locals and international tourists alike. Touring the grounds is as much about Buddha as it is about Rama. There’s an enormous “Wat” (temple complex) on site with Buddhas galore, including the tiny-but-most-revered Emerald Buddha (made of jade, not emeralds). You don’t see much of the King, aside from a handful of grand portraits. The faces around the Palace are Palace guards in formal pink uniforms, backed up by more conventional-looking military guards in green.  Over at the Wat, cameras were prohibited in the Emerald Buddha room — I saw one of the guards literally spank a woman with a handheld “No Photography” sign.  Some of the same folks enforced a strict dress code. You can’t show your legs or shoulders – or your tattoos.  And if you come unprepared, they make you rent pants.

On guard at the Royal Palace, it was this guy’s turn to be serious.

See what I mean about Disneyland?

* Before he was Ramses and before the Magnificent Seven, Yul Brenner played a 19th Century King of Siam in the musical “The King and I” in 1956.  His favorite word was “etcetera.”  The iconic role earned Brenner a mention in the 1990s pop song “One Night in Bangkok.”  “Siam” is what the rest of the world called Thailand for centuries, but the Thais never used it themselves.  Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country that was never under European colonial rule.   I was hoping to wedge the phrase/pun, “Yes, Siam!” into this writeup, but couldn’t bring myself to do it.